Okay--some of the basics to know. Ramadan is actually the name of a month in the Islamic calendar. One of the pillars of Islam is the obligation to fast from sunrise to sunset during this month. Did you know observant Muslims who are smokers also have to abstain from smoking for that period? This month also includes more donations to charities by Muslims as well as more social gatherings to break their fast and an opportunity for communal prayer. These are called Tarawih prayers (taraweeh) and they happen at night during which long parts are recited from the Qur'an. The pre-dawn meal that most Muslims get up to eat (if they want to function during the next work day!) is called suhoor and the meal to "break your fast" is called iftaar. The lantern (fanoos) is the symbol of Ramadan (at least in Egypt). This one is hanging in our porch and I light it at sunset.
If you have ever lived in a predominantly Muslim country during this month, you'll find that the whole month of Ramadan has a decidedly different rhythm from all other months. Particularly, there are lots of accommodations to help people with fasting. I noticed that people in Egypt would come to work later and leave earlier or maybe just move office hours to the evening--after the iftaar. Soccer games were scheduled for after iftaar, too. Likewise with schools--the evening classes I was teaching at the American University in Cairo (AUC) were moved much later in the evening so that a late afternoon and early evening were set aside for people to get home to rest and enjoy iftaar. This meant I was teaching until 11:00 p.m. at night!
The streets in Cairo come alive after iftaar. The evenings are the time for people to come out to do their shopping, visit friends, go to birthday parties, whatever couldn't be done in the day. Or, if they stay home, there are specials on television--including serious drama series (like the life of Nasser or Isfahan, the singer) or game shows or stories of 1001 Nights (Alf Leila wa Leila). Basically, the day gets tipped upside down with lots of activities simply shifted to the nighttime. Streets are lit with colored lights, and special food is displayed and lanterns are hanging outside merchants' stores waiting to be bought.
Places like the bakery El-Abd would be flooded with buyers, too.
For most Muslims in Minnesota, the observance of Ramadan is largely a private, indoor occasion that is spent with family or Muslim friends at someone's home with occasional gatherings in community centers, apartment party rooms or at mosques for special dinners with programs or the Tarawih prayers. But if you want to get the 'street' atmosphere of Ramadan in Minnesota in a public location, it's almost impossible! The closest thing is to go to Holyland in Northeast or the Marina restaurant on Lowry and University in N.E. Minneapolis. At the Marina, the Egyptian owner puts up a big tent and serves a decent buffet of food from a variety of cuisines. People sit around in the huge tent talking while children run around and the youth play soccer in the parking lot. This is just a glimpse into the feeling of the nights of Ramadan.